Jordan Part 4

Wadi Rum

Thankfully, today, we do not need to leave before 10:30am so we sleep until 8am. Packing our suitcases and an overnight bag as tonight we sleep with the Bedouin.  Not literally of course.

We stop throw out bags into the back of three flatbed trucks and climb onto the back under carpet shades. I love the Heath Robinson, make do and mend attitude of these trucks.  I put my new hat on (bought at Petra the day before) and pull up the ties to under my chin. We immediately head off road and into the desert. We gone 5mins and my hat flies off and driven over by the following trucks, it was less than 24hrs old...

We arrive at the camp, nestled gently next to some rock faces which offer some shelter from the extremes of the weather it has seansonal freshwater springs making it a suitable refuge for desert travellers and I am only a very little disappointed that we are not staying in tents. Instead, there are little brick-built rooms surrounding an open square where a fire is already prepared and surrounded by worn mattresses. There is no air-con here and our rooms are incredibly hot, too hot to stay in for any length of time. Instead, we sit in the communal dining room after the huge buffet lunch because there is shade from the rock face and a suggestion of a breeze, and wait for the desert ride time.

This is the man that owned the camp. His name was Harb. It means War.

There are six of us in each of the three cars and we head off for 4 hours of touring the desert.  It is the greatest of fun. Over dunes and along invisible roads. We find a mushroom shaped rock with its own souvenir shop. It’s easy to see how this landmark gets its name — Mushroom Rock stands boldly out against the flat sandy valley surrounding it. A favourite photo opportunity of visitors to Wadi Rum. The rounded head is perched on top of stone stem. Its odd formation is completely natural. Over centuries of wind and rain, the softer layers of sedimentary rock at the base of the structure eroded much faster than the hardened layer above. It also provides a sheltered area where you can find respite from the desert heat. In the past Bedouin herders were drawn to this landmark.

Wadi Rum, known as the Valley of the Moon, is a valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock in southern Jordan, near the border with Saudi Arabia. It is the largest wadi (river valley) in Jordan.  With an area of 720 km2 (280 sq mi) Wadi Rum feels familiar, which is not surprising as it has been used in Star Wars, Lawrence of Arabia, Aladin, the Martian (hence the martian type camps around) to name but a few.

Our guide Fawaz writes our names in the sand in Arabic. We climb and then run and roll down dunes.

One of our drivers at prayer.

The desert is simply beautiful. The rocks reflect the setting sun and are stunning shades of orange, gold, red and ochre, with touches of green. The afternoon air is warm and comfortable, like a hug, and to me smells like cinnamon and turmeric (that might just be my imagination though). Erosion has created rock formations that resemble ships and trains. Its no wonder that Ridley Scott felt that this place resembled Mars. In fact it looks a lot like Tatooine and Arrakis too.

There are several rock bridges that seem to defy gravity, and for simplicity are called the small bridge and the big bridge (but this is also known as Rock Bridge of Kharaz). The big bridge is located on the outskirts of the desert. It has a span of around 34 meters. Its height seems to vary depending on how high the sand is beneath it.

We drive to a place where we can watch the sun go down. On the rocks are prehistoric images of wildlife left by several ancient civilizations.

The sun set is truely magical and I am certain that our drivers too will never tire of seeing it. I can never get over how fast the sun dips below the horizon. It's an amazing, awesome experience, and ranks so high that I am still debating whether this day was better than our day in Petra. We return to the camp completely covered in sand, it's in our hair, mouths, ears, shoes, someone even has it in her belly button!

Back at Camp dinner is traditionally cooked in the desert oven. We are given a demonstration, and when the tiered shelves come out there is an audible 'Ooooh'. Potatoes, vegetables, chicken and lamb, served with a myriad of salads. My eyes are definitely bigger than my belly.

As the sun has gone down, I go in search for one of the other things on my ‘list’ of things to see. A sky full of stars! I head to the top of the dune a feat in itself and I am not disappointed. Despite the nearby light there are stars everywhere and a suggestion of milky way. I spot my first shooting star ever. I take what feels like hundreds of photos. I have everything crossed that one is any good. They’re not, I am disappointed in myself and just might have to go back to have another go.

Fawaz and Sam come looking for me just to check that I'm not walking to Saudi Arabia. I have missed toasting marshmallows over the huge fire.   We sit back in the dining hall and Lisa and I try to see stars by the camp fire but it is too bright and smoky to see much. So, we head back to the dune.

We don't have to climb far to be able to see them. It is unbelievably awesome to just lie there and look at the stars. We are joined my Maddy and Sam and then the rest of the gang that head further up the dune, but we are there for a long time just lying and looking. I have absolutely no sense of time.

It's already very late when we head for bed. Nearly midnight, and our rooms are still way too hot. So we copy others and drag our bedding outside and sleep on the path outside our room.

I can't really sleep, it's not really comfortable, and I just want to lay and watch the stars and the fire. When the young ones get back from the dune. There's a sudden suppressed panic when Emily and Tess find a huge white spider in their room. It’s Fawaz who comes to their rescue, but that does freak us out a little. I’m not great with spiders and I have everything crossed that they don’t just shoo it out of their room. Apparently he has to go for reinforcements and comes back with a broom, the spider does not survive the battle.

Someone's alarm goes off around 4:30am and I assume that they are getting ready for the camel ride at dawn. I am not going but am hoping to photograph the camels in the morning light. We have no power so early ablutions are done in the dark with the aid of the camera torch.

When we head for the camels, it is still completely dark, although there is a hint of pink in the sky.

They head off before the sun climbs. I find a spot high on the dune and wait and watch. It’s great just to sit and listen as the world wakes. Bird song, owls maybe and various squarks and squeeks. It's lovely to enjoy Desert Rose sung by Sting too and have it played on loop.   I do wish that I had done the camel ride as well. Although standing here alone as the sun comes up is breath-taking.

After breakfast it's the quickest shower ever before getting on the trucks and heading back to the bus. We make a quick stop at an abandoned station where two trains, one steam and one diesel stand rusting on narrow gauge rails. A photographer can’t resist a rusty train so….

I will finish my blog here before we get to Aqaba. Jordan was the most wonderful adventure and it will stay with me forever. I met the most amazing people, who have become friends for life (whether they want to be or not!) They have shared their images of things that I have missed and help me correct any mistakes in my journal. I have not told you everything and if you want to know about swimming in the Red Sea and the markets in Aqaba, book yourself a trip… you won’t be sorry!

Thank you for taking the time to read my travel blogs of Jordan. I would love to hear your comments.