Jordan Part 3

Little Petra and Petra

The real journey now begins as we leave Karak Castle and head for little Petra, we drive for over two hours along the desert road stopping only at a truck stop for a comfort break. The desert is as you'd expect quite monotonous and we break the boredom by spotting animals along the road, sheep, ponies, camels and by each volunteering a song for Emily's wonders tour 2023, and the song and requester need to be identified.

Little Petra, also known as Siq al-Barid literally means "the cold canyon" in Arabic. It is an archaeological site located north of Petra. Like Petra, it is a Nabataean site, with buildings carved into the walls of the sandstone canyons. As its name suggests, it is much smaller than Petra, consisting of three wider open areas connected by a 450-metre (1,480 ft) canyon. It is part of the Petra Archaeological Park, although it is accessed separately, it is included in Petra's inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Access to Little Petra is free and we almost have the place to ourselves

Like Petra, it was probably built during the height of Nabataean influence. It is believed that it was a suburb of Petra, the Nabatean capital, designed to house visiting traders on the Silk Road. After the decline of the Nabataeans, it fell vacant, used only by Bedouin nomads. None of us can quite believe the beauty of little Petra, the place for watering camels and for journey breaks before people head to the famous (big) Petra to do business. 

The rocks are amazing, the sand stone is striped with different sedimentary deposits and contours have been created mainly by wind but also water erosion. The caves and carvings are awe inspiring, and well-worn steps lead to caves and ledges higher up. The temperature has cooled to a much more manageable 32 (sounds hot but actually after the low 40s it feels great.)

The Bedouin are here in tents and have stalls dotted about selling goods and treasures. They wear make-up which make them look like Capt. Jack Sparrow, play single stringed instruments, invite tourists up to tents high in the rocks for photography and tips.

I honestly cannot believe I am here. Petra little or big has been on my bucket list forever, even before it featured in Indiana Jones.

It's a wrench to leave, but this short taster makes me excited for tomorrow and (big) Petra. We are heading for another hotel tonight and the road is bumpy and we do roller coaster squeals as we go over bumps. A quick shower and change before heading out to dinner. We have a table booked at Mom's own Recipes. I choose something local which is lovely, alongside Arabic and Tabbouleh salads.

We meet up in reception at 6am the following morning and we're not on the bus 5 minutes before we arrive at Petra. Ok I say Petra, but what I mean is the tourist entrance, museum and shopping square. Once through the entry gate, it's a long walk down hill, through canyons and passed genie or djinn blocks. These are three massive blocks, which are squared burial monuments. We then come to the Obelisk Tomb, carved in the 1st Century. Above the tomb are four pyramids and a niche within which you can just make out a statue in bas-relief, representing the five people buried here. Below it is the Triclinium, a banqueting hall. Where two millennia ago people would have reclined on couches at mealtimes.

More than 2000 years old, Petra was built by the Nabataeans in the heart of the Sharah Mountains.  Much more than the treasury the city prospered in the first century BC and was a vital part of a major trading route connecting ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt.

Its still wonderful and cool as we walk through the Siq (or shaft/gorge) which is the entrance to the ancient Navatean city of Petra. The gorge resulted from a natural splitting of the mountain and is 1.2km long. We walk between huge rock faces which are stripped in a variety of colours. Petra’s is also known as the rose-red city, a name it gets from the beautiful pink tinted rock from which the 40m high Treasury, Al Khazna, and many of the other city’s structures are carved. Despite knowing what's coming your first view of the Treasury literally takes your breath away. . (I’m a little cross with myself that I didn’t take a proper photo as you glimpse the Treasury through the gap without people in. However, I was too in awe and then in a hurry to see it properly)

The Treasury is crowned by a funerary urn, which according to local legend conceals a pharaoh’s treasure. The front of the Treasury is pock marked from treasure hunters shooting at the facia expecting Although the original function is still a mystery, In reality the urn represented a memorial for royalty. The purpose of the Treasury is still not entirely clear: some archaeologists believe it to be a temple, while others think it might be a place to store documents. However, the most recent excavation here has unearthed a graveyard beneath the Treasury. The Treasury comprises three chambers, a middle chamber with one on either side, the elaborately carved facade represents the Nabataean engineering genius. It is believed that the Treasury was carved from the top down. The foot hold like holes on either side are not now thought to be part of the construction, but rather created by the thieves looking for Treasure.

It is still cool as we arrive in the square and we take some time to absorb the beauty of the treasury. I really can’t believe I’m here. I am very grateful that Fawaz has brought us here early, there are only a few other tourists.

The Bedouin are here already though, with camels and persuasive chat to talk you into climbing rock faces to beautifully dressed spots perfect for photographs.  I am extremely brave (or foolish) and fall for the chat and with some of my friends I climb up to the Instagram spot with the help of a young Bedouin man. It was well worth the effort and I am so pleased that I did it.

Can you spot the ledge I climbed to? No? Go up the rock face from the white board at the gift shop, to a little black square level with the lower ridge in the centre.

Then after he helps me down, I am even more foolish and ride a camel (called Shakira) for photos in front of the building. Well, I’m unlikely to be back this way again (too many places to see, so little time).

Fawaz decides not to leave us to our own devices just yet but rather leads us on an intricate trail uphill to the Royal Tombs. He takes pity on me and carries my rucksack so that I am only carrying my cameras. There is far more climbing involved than I'd hoped but with lots of helping hands I make it all the way up. It’s definitely worth the effort, the tombs (the Urn, Silk, Corinthian and Palace tombs) and the views are incredible. 

While we sit and catch our breath at the top, a different guide goes into the tombs with his group and sings a beautiful Arabic trill which makes the hairs on the back of my neck stand on end. None of us dare move or speak as the sound echoes gently around the cave for fear of breaking the spell. He sings for less than a minute but that moment may stay with me forever.

Fawaz doesn't take us back the way we came, and we follow him over to where we brave the edges for photographs and cross mesh bridges as we head down and along to the ruins of a church. The church was probably built around the end of the 5th Century AD and most likely destroyed by an earthquake. The builders re-used materials such as capitals, door jams from earlier Petra monuments. It has more amazing mosaics, but we are tired and hungry and really don't appreciate it.  Next stop is food at one of many little restaurants, at the far end of the colonnaded street. Chicken shawarma again and a fruit cocktail smoothy; delicious!

Fawaz leaves us here and we can return at our leisure. Some people head on up to the monastery, Ad Deir, dating back to the 2nd Century AD and one of the largest monuments in Petra at 47m wide and 48.3m high. The inside are two benches and an alter on the back wall. I know my limits, however, and intend on going back with the others for whom the monastery with it’s 980 steps are a little too far in this heat. It’s easier said than done, going back. We head back passed Roman remains (They got everywhere) in sun, its around midday now and the sun is now hot, hot, hot...

Rachel’s photos of her walk to the monestry. Including a tea stop and a first glimpse of the building over the ridge of the mountain.

Our trail back leads uphill now and although we have plenty of time it's very slow going. I begin to struggle again in the nearly 40 degrees and my companions stay, encourage, praise and nag to help. We stop again at the treasury and enjoy ice creams and more water.  We continue uphill until almost the last corner of the last bend.  A Bedouin man notices my red face and offers a pony ride back to the gate. Which I accept.  We've heard a couple of rolls of thunder in the Siq and now there's rain. Just a few drops to cool, but really not a lot.

Patience Indiana, we can't go yet, Sam and Babs are still in the gift shop!

It 2 :30 and to add insult to injury the way to the carpark and the bus is up another 4/5 flights of stairs. But the bus is cool.  20mins later we are asleep on our beds.

Some go for Turkish baths but I don't fancy that and just chill until it’s time for dinner. This a special traditional dinner prepared by the hotel. There is a huge rice pot which is tipped upside down on to an enormous plate and now on top of the rice is chicken and potatoes, aubergines and cauliflower. It’s served with salads, hummus and pitta bread. With a with a type of bread-and-butter pudding or jelly and custard for dessert, all are delicious.

We are then off to Petra at night, I have high hopes for this but they are dashed almost immediately when we arrive at Petra….. together with hundreds of other tourists.  The walk down to the treasury is lit by candles in paper bags, so they glow gently orange but give enough light to show the way.

Along the Siq one of the Bedouin plays Dessert Rose by Sting as we walk past and it echoes though the gorge. Always one of my favourite songs, it will now always be associated with Petra.

When we arrive at the Treasury, thoughts are mixed. What I hoped would be a quiet affair is packed, completely and totally packed with tourists. They’re sat at the restaurant, on chairs, on the floor, we are directed to the wall in front of the Treasury. I have mixed feelings; I am close to the Treasury but it is behind me.  A Bedouin man playing a recorder or similar, the single simple sound is quite haunting, and would have been more enjoyable in a more intimate setting.  He is joined by someone playing a stringed instrument and singing. The ‘concert’ is short and after which an elder takes to the floor and tries to explain the history of his people in connection to Petra, during which different coloured lights are shone onto the Treasury. Then, quickly and suddenly, it’s all over.

I can't get the shot that I want with the Treasury and stars, and many of our group are disappointed with the evening. It is much cooler than earlier and although I am tempted by the offer of a ride back in a buggy. I am really pleased that I have walked it.

I can not be disappointed with my visit to Petra. It is a truly awesome place and one which will live in my memories forever.