Seeing the Medina Differently

I can’t do a trip to Marrakesh and not make time for my camera, especially somewhere as ‘romantic’ as Marrakesh.

I was fortunate enough to do two trips around the Medina, once on my own with a personal guide and the other the following day with my travelling companions and a different guide. I definitely needed both.

The Medina in the Morning

I met my personal guide at around 9am. It was still early and the air was surprisingly cool. I had expected the Medina to be busy almost 24/7, so I was surprised by how quiet it was. The stallholders were only just beginning to arrive and set up for the day, and the main square was rather empty.

The Medina is like stepping back in time, with its beautiful terracotta walls, narrow alleyways and life spilling into the streets. There was colour and texture everywhere — stories in lamps and souvenirs, doors, graffiti, cracked plaster and sacks of flowers and herbs.

I found myself stopping again to photograph another corner, then rushing to catch up with my guide. I don’t think he really understood what I wanted to see, and I couldn’t really explain it to him either.

I loved the tiny streets. They wound like a maze through the Medina, with doors that seemed to lead to who knows where. My favourites were the old ones, full of texture, cracks and fading paint. My guide, on the other hand, favoured the gorgeous, intricate doors of the small mosques.

I loved the way his blue shirt contrasted with the terracotta walls, and I was pleased that he was happy to be part of my day, and my photography.

I found the graffiti intriguing, and was surprised — and perhaps a little intimidated — by the number of mopeds and motorbikes that sped through the streets and wove through the crowds.

Around one corner, tucked to the side, were four old doors, gorgeous colours and fabulous texture. Almost waiting to be taken somewhere to become a gateway for adventure.

What more could a girl want?

He showed me the ‘artisan’ corner, where leather workers sat in doorways working on their wares. I glimpsed through doors into huge stores filled with glorious carpets and, regrettably, the blacksmiths had yet to make an appearance.

But I loved the lanterns hanging outside the shops, catching the early light.

Elsewhere, cheap souvenirs were stacked high: curly shoes, camels, cooking pots and sunglasses. My attention was piqued by sacks of dried flowers and herbs. Not only were the scents amazing, but the faded colours and textures made them irresistible to photograph.

At one of the shops, I got into a fascinating conversation with the shopkeeper, who explained what the different flowers and herbs, and the amber, were used for in creating oils and perfumes.

By the time we returned to the square, it was much busier, full of tourists and locals. My guide led me through the crowds and across the main road — which you do with one eye closed — and towards the beautiful Koutoubia Mosque, which stands just outside the Medina, surrounded by lovely gardens and fountains.

The mosque was quiet and had an atmosphere that demanded reverence.

Then, all too soon, the tour was over and I headed back to the hotel.

The Medina in the Afternoon

When I returned with the ladies the following day, it was lunchtime and hot.

The difference was immediate.

The square was packed with vendors, people and tourists. We were seduced by the fruit juice sellers — a whole row of them sitting at one end of Jemaa el-Fnaa, next to a green corner filled with plant sellers.

We bought a juice, which was delicious, and the seller gave us a number for his stall so we could find him again. There were so many fruit sellers, all surrounded by glorious, colourful fruit, that I’m not sure we would have managed otherwise.

And even among all those people and stalls, a butterfly had found one of the beautiful flowers.

I had been hoping to see one, so of course I was delighted.

Further into the square we were surrounded by the tourist attractions. I spotted a traditional water seller dressed in bright red and took a photograph because he looked amazing against the crowd.

One of the ladies explained that he now makes his money from selling images of himself rather than selling water.

When we got closer, he spotted my cameras and asked me to photograph him — and then asked me to pay him for doing it.

I declined.

He had asked me, after all.

There were also the street entertainers, with dancing monkeys and snakes. My guide the previous day had suggested that God gives them the power over animals. I saw it differently. I had already known that the monkeys were being used for entertainment, but later, after doing some research into how the snakes are ‘tamed’, I felt rather uncomfortable that we had taken part in it.

We escaped the heat for a while with a drink at the café at the edge of the square. It is a popular meeting place and the only space available for us was on the roof.

It was hot up there, but it gave us an amazing view over the rooftops and across the square.

Our guide was very different from the day before — chatty and smiley — and he took us on through the Medina to the palace.

The palace was still being rebuilt after the earthquake. Much of it was undamaged and incredibly beautiful, although there was obvious work still to be done.

Orange trees filled the courtyards and looked stunning against the intricate decorated walls.

It was packed with people, though, making it impossible to get a proper shot of the courtyard. So I photographed the tops of the walls and the green of the trees instead.

I actually liked the result. It gave just a hint, a suggestion, of the beauty beyond.

We wound through some of the same streets I had walked the day before, yet today they felt completely different.

They were packed and busy, and we were forced to walk single file along the narrow pavements. And still the mopeds and motorbikes squeezed through, piled high with deliveries and purchases.

More of the shops were open too, so there were more things to see. More souvenirs, but also jars, urns, olives, bowls, bags, hats and spices.

We stopped to listen to a musician playing in the street. He played while spinning the tassel on his hat, and for a few minutes we simply stood and watched.

Some of the streets were covered, giving us a little respite from the heat and the sun.

We visited a mausoleum with intricate mosaics covering the walls and ceilings, before heading back towards the mosque.

This time we went a little further into the walls, passing open doors and windows where we could look into the interior of the building, where the faithful were praying.

Even that felt a little intrusive, so we didn't linger.

By now, I was beginning to realise just how differently the Medina could feel depending on the time of day.

The quiet streets and cool morning light had given me the space to notice doors, textures, colours and small details. The following afternoon was hot, crowded and noisy, full of people, movement and things demanding attention.

Both were the Medina.

And I’m glad I saw both.

I think I’d like to go back again one day — perhaps in the evening — and see what another version looks like.